Post #1 · Posted at 2018-01-18 12:40:20pm 6.2 years ago
Hi all. I've been a longtime player of DDR since 2002 and have always dreamed of owning a metal pad, but didn't want anything cheap and couldn't afford Cobalt Flux back in the day. Shortly before my birthday today I did some research and found Omega pads seem to be the high end these days but I didn't like their design either, as I wanted my pad to feel like the arcade pad. So I found the videos by Riptide and set to work making a Riptide pad.
Thing is, I'm running into the most FRUSTRATING issue. The pad is completely built, and still needs some sensitivity adjusting, but whenever I test it, both the up arrow and the left arrow randomly cause the pad to "reboot" itself. It briefly disconnects and then reconnects itself. I can tell this because I am using an @Play Wired Xbox 360 controller, plugged into my PC, and the board goes from one light being on (player 1 on x360) to all 4 blinking, then back to player 1 being lit up. I have spent roughly 6 hours trying to troubleshoot this issue (with a friend as well) and while I have plenty of examples of what is NOT the issue, I still don't know what IS the issue.
Here's what's NOT the issue (all troubleshooting has been on the up arrow so far, as if I solve one arrow I will solve them both):
The connections. Using another piece of sheetmetal, I have tested each connection between neighboring screws and each 4 screws all together on each side of the well. All of these connections will register a button press and none of them will disconnect the pad for any reason. One of the wires WAS melted to another wire due to a bad soldering job on my part, but I was able to seperate them and electrical tape the exposed wire.
The controller. The current controller is the second one I tried. The previous was an old GameStop MadCatz Xbox 360 controller. Both controllers have the same issue and both controllers gave me no issues while in controller form playing games on my PC. So it's not the individual controller, unless there's a known issue with third party wired Xbox 360 controllers I don't know about.
The soldering/connection to the board. I have wiggled and abused the control board as much as possible (without risking damaging or breaking the thing) and have not once gotten a disconnect. Soldering and connections are solid.
The PC or any drivers related to the controller. I plugged this dancepad into my old Xbox 360, which is red-ring status but will still power a controller, and can replicate the issue there, too.
I can't seem to isolate a single screw or connector causing the issue either, as the only way to get the disconnect is to use my plexiglass with the contacts and step in random places on the pad or, if i'm on hands and knees troubleshooting, slam down in random places on the pad with my palm.
I HAVE noticed that the issue happens more with the corner braces completely fastened down and the plexiglass fully secured. So much so that a light tap almost anywhere on the pad seems to cause the issue.
The only thing I can think of at this point is there is maybe an issue with the contacts? The piece of sheet metal I am using to test connections is cut from the same sheet metal I used for the contacts, though, so I have no idea why that would be the issue, but I'm quickly running out of ideas, and super frustrated because this thing is ALMOST DONE and I have this issue that is rendering the pad completely unplayable
Help!
Pictures of the offending up arrow: https://imgur.com/a/Dt81z
Thing is, I'm running into the most FRUSTRATING issue. The pad is completely built, and still needs some sensitivity adjusting, but whenever I test it, both the up arrow and the left arrow randomly cause the pad to "reboot" itself. It briefly disconnects and then reconnects itself. I can tell this because I am using an @Play Wired Xbox 360 controller, plugged into my PC, and the board goes from one light being on (player 1 on x360) to all 4 blinking, then back to player 1 being lit up. I have spent roughly 6 hours trying to troubleshoot this issue (with a friend as well) and while I have plenty of examples of what is NOT the issue, I still don't know what IS the issue.
Here's what's NOT the issue (all troubleshooting has been on the up arrow so far, as if I solve one arrow I will solve them both):
The connections. Using another piece of sheetmetal, I have tested each connection between neighboring screws and each 4 screws all together on each side of the well. All of these connections will register a button press and none of them will disconnect the pad for any reason. One of the wires WAS melted to another wire due to a bad soldering job on my part, but I was able to seperate them and electrical tape the exposed wire.
The controller. The current controller is the second one I tried. The previous was an old GameStop MadCatz Xbox 360 controller. Both controllers have the same issue and both controllers gave me no issues while in controller form playing games on my PC. So it's not the individual controller, unless there's a known issue with third party wired Xbox 360 controllers I don't know about.
The soldering/connection to the board. I have wiggled and abused the control board as much as possible (without risking damaging or breaking the thing) and have not once gotten a disconnect. Soldering and connections are solid.
The PC or any drivers related to the controller. I plugged this dancepad into my old Xbox 360, which is red-ring status but will still power a controller, and can replicate the issue there, too.
I can't seem to isolate a single screw or connector causing the issue either, as the only way to get the disconnect is to use my plexiglass with the contacts and step in random places on the pad or, if i'm on hands and knees troubleshooting, slam down in random places on the pad with my palm.
I HAVE noticed that the issue happens more with the corner braces completely fastened down and the plexiglass fully secured. So much so that a light tap almost anywhere on the pad seems to cause the issue.
The only thing I can think of at this point is there is maybe an issue with the contacts? The piece of sheet metal I am using to test connections is cut from the same sheet metal I used for the contacts, though, so I have no idea why that would be the issue, but I'm quickly running out of ideas, and super frustrated because this thing is ALMOST DONE and I have this issue that is rendering the pad completely unplayable
Help!Pictures of the offending up arrow: https://imgur.com/a/Dt81z
Post #2 · Posted at 2018-01-18 08:35:26pm 6.2 years ago
 playe | |
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The screw method of the sensors that Riptide used in that video is actually a really bad design. Over time while you're playing the screws will be hammered into the pad because of the panel slamming down on them and you'll have to raise them up again. Which will cause the threads in the wood to strip over time.
A better solution for the sensors is to get a couple mending brackets (I plan on getting some L shaped ones for my own pad design), put some mousepad or weatherstripping inbetween them (obviously not as thick as you're using to cushion the arrow panels themselves) and solder ground to one of them and the input to the other.
As for the main problem you're having... I'm not sure what to tell you. Honestly I think it would probably be better if you grabbed a cheap USB softpad off ebay or something, and made your control box from the PCB that's in the trapezoidal plastic. If there's one thing that the PDP guy did right, it was making a tutorial on how to make your own control box. Might need a little bit of rewiring, but it makes it much simpler in the long run, and shouldn't give you any of these disconnection issues you're having.
Plus on the bright side, this method means you could make it compatible with any console that you want to play a dance game on. Not just PC.
A better solution for the sensors is to get a couple mending brackets (I plan on getting some L shaped ones for my own pad design), put some mousepad or weatherstripping inbetween them (obviously not as thick as you're using to cushion the arrow panels themselves) and solder ground to one of them and the input to the other.
As for the main problem you're having... I'm not sure what to tell you. Honestly I think it would probably be better if you grabbed a cheap USB softpad off ebay or something, and made your control box from the PCB that's in the trapezoidal plastic. If there's one thing that the PDP guy did right, it was making a tutorial on how to make your own control box. Might need a little bit of rewiring, but it makes it much simpler in the long run, and shouldn't give you any of these disconnection issues you're having.
Plus on the bright side, this method means you could make it compatible with any console that you want to play a dance game on. Not just PC.
Post #3 · Posted at 2018-01-28 10:58:53pm 6.2 years ago
| greenspectre | |
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Thank you for the reply!
After messing around with it for i-dont-know-how-long, I eventually caved and took your advice. I bought the only softpad I could find that wasn't a chinese or malaysian import (and therefor would take roughly a month to ship) and got this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBOGI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a DDRGame Softpad. I quickly took it apart and wired it per the instructions from PrecisionDancePads, and it doesn't disconnect, but it gives me a different issue instead...
When I test the gamepad in windows (Properties menu under the gamepad itself) everything works fine. I used HTML5 gamepad tester and everything seems A-OK in there, too. However, Stepmania is showing constant ghost inputs on the right arrow, even when I take off the plexi for that arrow. The wiring is solid, so it's not that, and I found another driver, tried that, and got a DIFFERENT issue where the arrows worked perfect but I ran into issues whenever I'd try to step on two arrows at the same time (Stood on left and right and stepmania suddenly changed right to "down"). I tried enabling the axis fix in stepmania and this didn't help either. I also tried the "dance pad code" that apparently fixes the jump issue (there's a youtube video by ddrgame explaining this) and it didn't help either.
Does my issue match any known issues and are there any known fixes? I'm running out of ideas
After messing around with it for i-dont-know-how-long, I eventually caved and took your advice. I bought the only softpad I could find that wasn't a chinese or malaysian import (and therefor would take roughly a month to ship) and got this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBOGI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a DDRGame Softpad. I quickly took it apart and wired it per the instructions from PrecisionDancePads, and it doesn't disconnect, but it gives me a different issue instead...
When I test the gamepad in windows (Properties menu under the gamepad itself) everything works fine. I used HTML5 gamepad tester and everything seems A-OK in there, too. However, Stepmania is showing constant ghost inputs on the right arrow, even when I take off the plexi for that arrow. The wiring is solid, so it's not that, and I found another driver, tried that, and got a DIFFERENT issue where the arrows worked perfect but I ran into issues whenever I'd try to step on two arrows at the same time (Stood on left and right and stepmania suddenly changed right to "down"). I tried enabling the axis fix in stepmania and this didn't help either. I also tried the "dance pad code" that apparently fixes the jump issue (there's a youtube video by ddrgame explaining this) and it didn't help either.
Does my issue match any known issues and are there any known fixes? I'm running out of ideas
Post #4 · Posted at 2018-01-29 01:44:12am 6.2 years ago
| playe | |
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Hmm... I'm not sure what the problem could be concerning that. The only thing I can suggest is going back to the original, stock drivers that plug in and play when you first get the softpad, and then checking to make sure all your screws are actually level by testing various parts of the panel. It could be that one or more are slightly raised up and are getting double-tapped when you step.
Other then that my solution would be to find a different sensor method and use that instead. It's not ideal, and it involves a LOT of rewiring and purchasing, but there's not much else I can think of. I have yet to get all the materials I need to build my pad, so I'm just guessing on what could be logical at this point.
Other then that my solution would be to find a different sensor method and use that instead. It's not ideal, and it involves a LOT of rewiring and purchasing, but there's not much else I can think of. I have yet to get all the materials I need to build my pad, so I'm just guessing on what could be logical at this point.
Post #5 · Posted at 2018-01-29 02:42:54am 6.2 years ago
| Zowayix | |
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Hate to say this, but DDRGame has a reputation for selling bad quality products.