DDR Arcade adaptation

Hello there!
I saw a video on YT that a guy from Japan who owns a ddr arcade made the following, he plug the pcb board (which is the main part of a ddr arcade) in a tv or in a monitor and made the respective hookups with a normal metal pad, I think you can do it also with a home made pad, also he plugged the select and start buttons in something like a box.
Here's the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLrf1LZQ-so

I'm really interested on adquiring a pcb board and play 4thmix plus and 5thmix at home 'cause I got their respective bootlegs.
Any help about this?

Well, you need to find the 573 with the 32 meg flash card, that's the first step. The real problem is rigging a control box (the thing he used to press start and select with) and pad up to jamma, which would probably turn out to be a real pain.

well thanks in advance for the answer
Another thing that I'd like to know is about the pad, how can I wire them to the pcb like the video?
As I understand the start and select buttons should be hooked to jamma, but is it possible to get the same results like the video?
Maybe Chi can help me with this

Yeah, Chi is kind of a god with these things. You'd pretty much have to map both up via jamma (a really annoying arcade standard that maps each button/input to a small wire soldered onto a board).

Wow! What a set up!

I think that's just the innards of the DDR machine laying on the table?

He hasn't hooked it upto a Supergun or an ipac or anything, he's just gutted the machine, and plugged it into a TV?

If you've just got the board, then you can probably plug it into a Supergun, and wire the controller into a Cobalt Flux, then connect the Supergun to a TV?

Merry Christmas from France


System 573 *DIGITAL* - very important, else you'll need the internal digital I/O board (hard to find, typically - I'm quite fortunate that the ex-Konami distro is in the next city from me and still has old parts hanging around). Generally if it has the memory card it's ok, but just to be sure I thought I'd clarify...

Re: Youtube vid - Lol, classic DDR in Widescreen

The Youtube guy has basically made his own supergun. He's powering it from a standard arcade machine power supply (I had one of these in my Konami Windy Cab - though a PC PSU would work fine for this application), and routing the video through one of these: http://www.micomsoft.co.jp/xav-2s_function.htm - tis a Micomsoft XAV-2S (it turns arcade RGB colour signals into a Composite video signal and other stuff - quite a nice bit of kit, but is Japanese only), He's then routing the audio direct to the TV, and he's gutted the machine's JAMMA loom to splice onto his pad.

Ok, in principal this ISN'T tricky to do (the easiest way is as Tyma says - buy a Supergun and wire the Cobalt Flux directly into that - it's a relatively minor job), but there are a few things to point out.

1) Forget trying to do this with SuperNOVA or SuperNOVA 2 - they have extensive hardware checks and there does not exist (to my knowledge) any bootlegs with this removed - the only bootlegs are the crappy PS2-in-a-cab ones. I've been trying to get a legit SuperNOVA 2 PCB working on my classic DDR cab since March, but that's another story

2) With regards to System 573, You can ONLY use a Solo mix (=DDR SOLO Bass, DDR Solo 2000, DDR 4thMIX SOLO, DDR 4thMIX PLUS SOLO), or else a bootleg of a doubles mix that has the stage I/O checks patched out (these exist for 3rdMIX, 4thMIX PLUS, 5thMIX, MAX, MAX 2, Extreme, EuroMIX, and EuroMIX 2). Trying to use an original mix (or a bootleg without the I/O checks patched out) result in an error, and the game halting (unless you enjoy hex editing Playstation executables to patch out the checks yourself).

If you are trying to "roll your own" supergun:
3) You will need a JAMMA harness of some description (these are cheap to get), or at the very least a JAMMA fingerboard and edge connector and lots of wire. I suggest starting from a Supergun unless you know what you are doing, and you will require basic soldering skills (and a multimeter is a good idea for checking continuity of your connections and troubleshooting). The four Selects, two Starts (1P and 2P, natch), Test and Service buttons (you need all of these) are trivial to add - they are simply push-to-make buttons, and you wire them between ground and the appropriate pin on the JAMMA:

http://www.arcadeshop.de/images/jamma-pinout.gif

1P Start = 1P Start (pin 17)
1P Select Left = 1P button 2 (pin 23)
1P Select Right = 1P button 3 (pin 24)

2P Start = 2P Start (pin U)
2P Select Left = 2P button 2 (pin a)
2P Select Right = 2P button 3 (pin b)

Test = Test (pin 15)
Service = Service (pin R)

The nice thing about DDR mixes is that the UDLR arrows are mapped to UDLR on the JAMMA loom:
1P Up = 1P Up (pin 18)
1P Down = 1P Down (pin 19)
1P Left = 1P Left (pin 20)
1P Right = 1P Right (pin 21)

2P Up = 2P Up (pin V)
2P Down = 2P Down (pin W)
2P Left = 2P Left (pin X)
2P Right = 2P Right (pin Y)

I have no idea about rewiring the Cobalt Flux itself (I own one, but I left it at my old employers and never really used it - it was for my students, really) - IIRC there is a control box for connecting to a Playstation 2, so I expect the raw input signals are converted to a PS2 controller's spec there - if you are lucky you might be able to get a raw connection for all the panels off the D-sub connector on the pad.

4) The two (red and white) RCA connectors on the front of the 573 are unamplified stereo audio - there is also an amplified mono audio source off the JAMMA edge (but don't use this).

5) Don't be fooled into thinking that the DB15HD on the motherboard is a VGA socket (it looks like one) - it isn't - it's the wrong voltages and the wrong frequencies for a VGA monitor.

Instead, you'll need some kind of video converter that can take a 15kHz 3.3Vp-p RGB signal and turn it into whatever your TV can handle (composite, S-video, standard RGB), or a VGa signal, if you want to use a PC monitor:

http://www.arcadeshop.de/product_info.php?pidmod=gb&products_id=gb-778&currency=GBP

Most of these converters are total crap, tbh. Lot's of people swear by JROK video converters, but I've not tried them myself:

http://jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html

Ok, that'll have to do until I get home on the 3rd Jan - no more internet for me till then!

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