The DDR homepad building and softpad modding thread! (HUGE TOPIC)

sounds like a plan there rag.
Alternatively you could just buy a set of ITG or Pump panels (center panels or something)
A guy in the NZ ddr group named Riki is putting together his own design, with half sized panels for those playing singles that uses arcade sensors. He's doing it all the right way though, it's currently costing more than a few hundred dollars despite the smaller sized panels (same width, smaller depth.)

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Currently my pad is at this stage, left only soldering and making the panels standing on corner brackets.

However, I noticed that my panel side length ( something like http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd420/8ftmetalhead/Zenius%20-i-%20Vanisher%20home%20pad%20thread/Riptides%20design/image14php.jpg ) is longer than the corner brackets., making it unable to sit at it. Any solutions?

I (mostly) finished my pad recently, to the point of it being usable to play songs anyway. Still needs a little bit of work though and fine adjustments.



Entire album: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.778995465448837.1073741827.100000151734826&type=1&l=6894febfea

I need to find some artwork for it, and also figure out what to do about the controller. I'm thinking I might just throw a few momentary push buttons on a piece of leftover acrylic (I need to buy different buttons; the ones I got are NC, and apparently I want NO so the circuit completes on press as-expected).

I'm using the controller board from a old Konami softmat I had.

I'm thinking I might want to add a few lights to the pad too, but not too sure on the best way to do so. I was thinking put a LED on the outer-edge of the acrylic and have it light the entire edge, then wire the LED to the sensor somehow so it toggles on or off based on the panel being pressed or de-pressed. I'm wondering if the controller can even power a LED safely though...

As for the panel art, I think I'll just go with the standard "Show me your moves" and "Stay Cool!" DDR art, but have no idea where I could get it (I think the first post mentioned it; i'll check it again), or where to have them printed off at.

Edit: I also seem to have a problem with static build-up causing arrows not to register, but it only seems to happen when I try using a PSX-to-USB adapter for StepMania (works fine on my PS2). Wondering the best way to fix this? I'm thinking I might just need a better adapter?

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controllers probably wont do multiple led's very well. try relays or a second set of switches (or paralell if you can? not sure) with maybe a battery pack or small dc brick.
not sure about mitigating the static either i'm afraid. its not something ive run into. perhaps its a grounding issue?
looks good though.

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The static issue seemed tied to only that USB converter. I ordered two other ones that have no such problem.

As for the art work, I just took the remains of the old pad I ripped apart, took the decal, and placed it on my pad with black construction paper as the background. Not the "best" job, but it looks pretty good.



Right now, my arrows are connected to the X, O, Start, and Select buttons, and I use the pad exclusively for StepMania. The adapters I bought have that common axis issue. Does anyone have any suggestions for a cheap adapter that's known to actually work with a dance pad (confirmed working preferably; I ordered an adapter with advertised dance pad compatibility which wasn't true)?

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i used this one for a long time and it worked very well:

super joy box 3 pro
http://www.mayflash.com/Products/PCUSB/PC037.html

Hmm, so after playing a good bit on my pad, the inner screws are kind of annoying due to being stepped on. I'm thinking I might be able to remove them and just have the outer two screws hold the pad in-place (I believe the weatherstripping should also prevent the panels from sliding too much). Another alternative might be to just drill two more holes along the outer edge and just have four screws keep it in place.

Might have to find some rubber stoppers or something to cover up the previous holes, but idk.

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Anyone tried to connect those to Android?
This android clone supports USB dance mats/controlers/keyboards, so it should work

Also here
http://zenius-i-vanisher.com/v5.2/viewthread.php?threadid=6502&page=1

I am really getting the feeling you are either a spambot, or you are the creator of said game you have been posting the majority of the time you have been on this site.

Dude, we get it, it's a SM clone for Android, if it advertises that it works with USB Dance mats, then it can more than likely work (or not, don't really care much), just keep this stuff in it's own thread and not spam it on other threads please.

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I'm not a bot..
Just wanted to share something i recently found on android market.
Sorry to bother you.

If you hadn't of posted it here, I would of never heard of it, thanks!

I'll have to give it a go, would be really interesting if it works

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What kind of material could you use to keep a pad with a particle board bottom from sliding on carpet? I think my pad is around the 10-15 pound range at the moment, but I noticed that one of those cheap DDRgame pads don't slide as much. (I don't play on it because the inner parts of the sensor don't pick up crap.)

I just wanted to say a few words in memory of my longest-serving Konami soft pad, circa DDR SuperNOVA*, which danced its last this evening. It was tragically disabled when its bottom and top separated during a routine playthough of JANEJANA, rendering it too unstable for high level play.

The pad was unmodded (but there ain't no "unmodding" thread), the only alterations being the bits of tape covering the various holes and tears in the mat and cord. It survived five years of harsh play, entire-game marathons, reckless spin attempts, being crumpled and tossed around, being stored in a humid environment, having alcoholic beverages spilled on it, and being used as a toilet countless times by old cats and young dogs.

In the final days leading up to its demise, the pad provided new rekkits on PARANOiA MAX ~dirty mix~, TRIP MACHINE, and, shockingly, The legend of MAX. It is survived by its siblings Extreme 2, X, X2, and Disney Channel Edition. X2 will take over its duties as primary pad. While structurally sound, the new pad is thus far providing a worrying amount of down arrow misses, though it may just need to be broken in some more.


*My Extreme 2 pad is still kicking, but it's currently taped to my DDR X pad for doubles duty and therefore sees very little use anymore. There is also a Mario Mix pad which is likewise rarely used.

I have what I'm fairly sure is an Afterburner pad, and the Left arrow has stopped responding completely. Previously it was getting skippy (double/triple hitting). Switching the arrow panels revealed that is not the contacts. I did previously resolder the wire on the left arrow, but since it feels secure and hasn't popped out, I don't think that's the problem. Also, I had to resolder the down arrow's wire at one point, and the fix has worked perfectly ever since, so I'm fairly sure its not the soldering on the left arrow. I also tried cleaning the circuit plate and the contacts with steel wool, but its still not working.

Pending any other suggestions, I was thinking I'd try replacing the sensor if in fact its possible to. It looks like this:



I saw these products at Radio Shack:


Could I replace the sensor with the copper PCB in the middle? And would I have to etch it somehow, like with the kit on the right?

So my dad was supposed to build me a pad like 7 years ago. He never has the time to do it, so I guess either I could build one or I could just buy an Omega ITGX. I have no experience with welding, soldering, etc. so it might be better to go with the ITGX. Anyone here think otherwise?

How are the contacts on the other side? You probably have some aluminum tape or something else that presses on that circuit board to complete the circuit.

You could also use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the circuit board panel as well as any wire or aluminum tape that is used to compete the circuit. Short of that, maybe the foam is breaking down too much and needs to be replaced too.

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Are you referring to the foam surrounding the sensor plate?

Also: By contacts I'm guessing you mean the thin metal underneath the arrow plate? When the left arrow was first having problems I saw holes in the foil-like contact, and ultimately replaced it with brass shim:



The new contact worked but did not solve the double-hit problem on the Left. This contact worked perfectly on the down arrow.

The sensor pic from earlier is a stock photo, so I'll show what mine looks like:


Underside:



Here's the resoldered wire under the electrical tape:



One last bit of brainstorming: On the corner on top of the circuit there's a little sticky pad that the keeps the connected wires from passing through. I accidentally bored a little hole through it when cleaning out old wires from the plate back when the problems started. I covered the hole I made with electrical tape. I don't think this is part of the problem but if it is, I'd like to hear about it.

I can try the alcohol cleaning, but I suspect a whole new circuit board is in order. Will any board do or do I need a specific type or have to etch the interlaced pattern myself?

This may be part of your problem. Brass is not very electrically conductive as it oxidizes (which occurs fairly quick). The same thing occurs with copper, which is why aluminum is preferred. I was referring to the foam around the sensor plate, however it appears to be in pretty good shape.


You can use a multimeter to measure the conductivity of the traces on the board (via a continuity test) - I suspect it's probably just fine, but there could be fine breaks in the traces. Etching new boards isn't for the faint of heart, but if you know someone with experience it could certainly be done.

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I also bought aluminum sheet, but tapping the circuit with it brought no response. Alcohol cleaning didn't help either.


I got off the phone with DDR game; they might be able to sell me a new sensor, so I will look into that before I try etching.

This might be a good a time as any to reveal my other broken pad. I think the pad works inside, but the connecting cable was severed when someone (maybe me maybe friends) carelessly yanked on the wire and ripped the weakly attached wires from the VGA-like cable.



Under the up arrow I found this connecting apparatus:

Top view:



Front/inside view:



I've tried a few experiments: When the black wire is connected near slots 14-15 per this crude diagram, the pad presses left, and when the orange wire is connected near there, it presses left.

--1--2--3--4--5
6--7--8--9--10
-11-12-13-14-15

Any and all knowledge appreciated.

I first started playing Dancing Stage Supernova 2 about 5 years ago and now after a few years long break I got myself DDR: New Moves (damn the song pool is boring :l ). I ordered a couple of cheap USB pads from ebay and I'm now planning on turning them into arcade-like double pads, but a couple of questions have come up as well:
I've been trying to find measurements for the bar on arcade pads but I just can't seem to find the information anywhere. Anyone has the approximate diameter and height of the bar?
And what is the gap between the two pads in arcade? The Melting Pot gives 1 13/16", but I thought of asking just to be sure.

I would run to the closest arcade and measure them myself but I have only stumbled upon one Pump It Up machine thorough my whole life, and it was in military area's canteen. Never saw anyone else but me play it (only once, too) during my time there. :P

I actually have thought of building an arcade cabinet but unfortunately it seems like I won't be able to do that for at least a few years. Unless someone I know will be able to provide the space for it. (Hopefully getting accepted to Uni this autumn and living in a block/rowhouse with a student budget sort of slows down that kind of things.)

Cheers from Finland! :D