The DDR homepad building and softpad modding thread! (HUGE TOPIC)

If your pad worked well back then, it should logically still work now. All you need to do is either rewire to your current control box using SOME sort of connector (you could even get someone to custom crimp a network cable) or get a new one. I mean in america you guys can get ddr pads in eb games /gamestop right? So just grab one from there, rip it apart and solder to it, don't even worry about splitting the cable off the other end of it. FAR cheaper than a cobalt flux.

You can use the pics of my xbox pad on the previous page if you want, they should be pretty clear.

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It's a PAIN IN THE BUT to solder to those little things. I suggest you get a good solder coat on the end of your wire, then try and heat it up while inserting it into the d-sub contact. Or yeah just go buy another dance pad and skip the d-sub altogether.

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That's a good idea. I might even be able to find a used one somewhere, and save even more.


You're not kidding. On top of how hard it was, this one was just jacked up, so it made it worse.
I'll look into getting an old pad, and resoldering it to this one, to save some cash.

Then again, I might just get a Cobalt Flux. Sure, they're expensive, but man, they look great.

http://www.amazon.com/Pump-Up-Exceed-Bundle-Playstation-2/dp/B000B7FTD0

That is my FAVORITE PS2 Control Box. Just unscrew the controller, remove the wires and all the Buttons are LABELLED, additionally there's a really nice small dot below all the buttons that you can solder all your wires to very EASILY, then your diagonal buttons are going to be mapped to L1, L2, R1, R2 so they won't mess you up when playing DDR ever again AND you can use the same dance pad for PIU and DDR from now on. It's perfect in every aspect, other dance pads that you'll buy are going to have a layer of insulation over the contacts that you need to scratch off (like a lottery ticket but worse) and the solder will never stick well. I used to use popscicle sticks and small clamps just to keep pressure on the wires so they wouldn't fall out until I learned of the wonders of the PIU PS2 control box!!!! And $25 is steep just for a control box but consider that Cobalt Flux charges $50 for a shitty one (they aren't known for good control boxes but maybe things have changed), and you get a PIU game you can play with your newly functional pad. Oh and that DDR Extreme game that didn't have the PAD option to remove the diagonal arrows from play won't matter anymore, you can play it perfectly with this setup.

If your still not convinced, you'll learn the hard way like I did, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy two of them today. Heck if you can find them BROKEN that should even work since it's unlikely the control box broke and you can still use it, oh and I even think the cord is longer on the PIU pad than traditional DDR pads, there's absolutely no flaws.

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Updated the first post slightly. Added a ref. to the possible use of control boards for fightsticks to stick in DDR pads for the xbox and ps3.

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doops, wrong thread

wait so whats hellrazor's setup to make his no-screw pad? is it listed in the first post?

I have videos I ...still... intend to upload to youtube with instructions.

Basically, if you have a Cobalt Flux pad, just remove all your screws and install nylon cable ties. I recommend using the 8" ones because they are thicker and won't break (very RARELY). The benefits are that you can remove your panels ANY TIME and no screws to scratch your feet up. BE CAREFUL when installing the cable ties, you want to insert the cable tie from the BOTTOM (velcro side) of the panel to the TOP, you also want the head of the cable tie to be almost under the panel and flat right on the EDGE of the panel so that it isn't pressing up against the velcro. You don't want it above the panel because it will affect your playing surface (you want it to be as flat as possible), pull the cable tie TIGHT they will push up against other ties from other panels, you just need to adjust them so your panel is flat on the velcro and not pressing up against the cable tie on the other panels. Playing in shoes on difficult modes may break the cable ties (I haven't tried but I can imagine sheet metal + motion + grippy shoes = snap) however the 8" ties seem very strong, I've done doubles mode and haven't broke one in several months now.

Again, BENEFIT = easy to remove, clean, bend, and no scratches from screws, no more worry about loose screws, wood filler, toothpicks or whatever to keep screws tight in loose holes anymore.
Penalty = slightly larger gap forced between panels (doesn't seem to affect anything, just easier to see between panels now) and not as nice looking (opinion) as screws. Although black cable ties with a black arrow decal (like the ITG decals) is nice!! They may be difficult to install, use needlenose pliers, pull them tight and cut the excess cable off. If it's too tight use a drill to make the hole bigger. You will also need to cut the cable ties apart if you want to change your arrow decals, and the cost associated with buying the 100 pack cable ties (although they are cheap).

You can even consider getting 2" tiny cable ties for the NON-arrow buttons that you will rarely use mainly because they are SO MUCH easier to install.

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oh i see, so you would need to already have a coblt flux?

btw, does anyone know how the whole common wire works? the instructions on page 1 said to put button wires on top of arrow, and common wires touching all bottom parts of arrows. The common completes the circuit or something?

You don't have to have a CF, you could build one in the same manner.
Common = Ground. The whole circuit is made of sheet metal, there's a large plate under ALL the arrows, the whole pad, you attach the Ground wire to this plate. The remainder of the arrows you connect to other wires, they are separated by air and velcro (the velcro also acts as the glue that keeps the wires on the sheet metal). Thus when you step on an arrow, you press down and the metal arrow contacts the ground plate completing the circuit and registering as a button press, the bend in the sheet metal will then spring the arrow back up when your foot is moved. It's fairly simple but very durable and reliable as well.

Basically you have the wood base (3/4" melamine is what CF uses), then a large 33"x33" sheet metal plate that you glue on the wood, then velcro to attach all the arrows to the sheet metal, then your arrow decal, then the lexan on top. In this design the cable ties are simply to keep the decal and lexan attached to the sheet metal arrows.

Are you building a pad?

Are you going to follow my design?

Do you want a large base with a bar attachment?

Have you bought anything yet?

Do you have soldering skills?

Do you need any help (I can help you walk through each step).

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wow, thanks so much for all of the information! I really appreciate it!!

So this is my situation. I'm very new to DDR, so i got a foam 1" soft pad, which kinda already stopped working for me, which already yesterday (a week into using it) one of the arrows stopped working. I looked up this building your own metal pad, and it sounds like a fun project and also very rewarding in having a fully customizable pad that you have total control over.

So i really want to build a pad, but i am not so sure about the wiring to the controller, since even though i am a little comfortable with soldering in general, i have never done anything with a computer chip, and i'm not sure if i should get a ps2 controller, or a cheap dance pad or a PIU pad off amazon (i think i read that you posted, but not sure).

So my funds are kinda limited, so i dont wanna buy a brand new CF pad, and i also want to do the project.

So i'd really appreciate any help with it. Thanks so much!

Also, one small thing, i'm a size 13 shoe, and i read that the panels are supposed to be like 11". Is that how t is in the arcade? Will it work alright?

i'm assuming its not really a big deal, because it's not abnormally gigantic, but i just wanna make sure.

also, so the whole thing only works if the acrylic will bend under my weight to connect the two metal sheets. Does that mean i have to apply lots of weight to the center of the panel? (i'm about 150 lb...a skinny tall guy with large feet)

thanks for the help

oh and i like "DDR Homepad's design " the most, cuz it looks easiest and cheapest, and maybe some ideas from Stolis.

I'm 6'7" at 195lbs, I wear a size 16 shoe, and I can play quite well...

My children play with me (ages 5 and 8), they've been playing on these pads for a long time now, hitting arrows has never been a problem, but the youngest used to have to really spread his legs out to hit jumps when he was 3 years old. Keeping holds pressed down used to be a problem for him, but he's 50lbs now and hasn't had a problem with that in awhile.

If you can solder at all (even if you can't) you'll still be able to solder your own controller. If you want one for your PS2 games, I SWEAR by the PIU pads. If you want one for your PC (USB) buy a cheap Wingman Precision controller. Most soft-pad controllers are difficult to solder to, and most regular controllers are very difficult to solder to, but the two I mentioned have BIG FAT solder spots that make it easy.

Building your pad is rewarding and useful, but you have to really love the game because you'll be building a piece of furniture.

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great, thats reassuring. so for the acrylic, what would be better, the Optix or Duraplex from Lowes

http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogDisplay?Ns=p_product_price|0&Ntt=acrylic+sheet&langId=-1&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&N=0

and also, for most of the setups, how do they get the wiring to the arrows when they have solid squares in the way, like Stolis design? dont the wires get squished?
and also, it doesnt matter if its the same ground wire connected to all of the panels, right? (as opposed to four separate ground wires which would achieve the same thing, lol). is it hard to identify the ground wire and stuff?

thnx




EDIT: i was checking out the wingman precision controller, but i have a mac and since its from '03, it might not evn work with my version, so i found a slightly different model which for sure works with mac. do you think it will also be easy to solder? thnx

http://cgi.ebay.com/Logitech-Precision-USB-Gamepad-Controller-PC-Mac-/220807075950?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D120650323607%26ps%3D54

stolis I believe is run under the pads.
If you look at mine, I chiselled out a few grooves for the wires. Because of the fact that there's sheet metal of some sort between the base and the panel, it generally has enough room for one or two cat5 size wires.
Originally, I didn't have grooves. I figured out later it was my wires under my up arrow, all grouped together that was causing my lack of sensitivity in my panel. So I shifted the wires, cut grooves, and it works fine now. That was 8 wires along one side of the panel though, so you can tell why it had a slight impact.

(and even then, it was only a very occasional miss)

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oh thats good. so what about the acrylic i asked about, is there any difference between the Duraplex and Optix? if Lowes says one is mre bendable, should i get that one?

That'll probably be better than what I use thanks to the Start / Exit buttons.
Basically not having Rubmle or Analog thumb sticks and being a real cheap controller are all +++'s for us, and the responsiveness of the Wingman Precision controllers just makes it full of win IMHO. I would recommend wiring the four arrows to the buttons 1,2,3,4 on the controller, then just step on Start and Select and map those to Start and Exit in StepMania, so as you play you will need to press the controller to press start (similar to how CF has start / exit on their control box https://www.cobaltflux.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16141)

I can't help you with someone else's design. The Pro about my design is that it's relatively easy to build and you can make two pads for almost the same price as building one, the Con is that it would cost over $200 to build just one (most of the cost being the sheet metal, but having two pads for just over $200 is nice, it's because most items are sold in a size that twice what will be needed, but you can't buy half of it).

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oh i see, cool, thnx

EDIT

Hey guys, i would like to thank G-d and my parents for helping me get to this moment in my life. I couldnt have done it without them.



So thank G-d i built my own DDR pad!! Its not aesthetically perfect, but it works well.

I usually never post feedback or reviews or anything like that, cuz i dont really care for it to make time for it. But i wanted to say thanks to you guys for your help!

I'd like to thank 8ftmetalhead for posting the material in the first place. Thank you so much.

Also hellrazor for your help.

And everybody else!

'sall good dude. any chance we can get pics and a guide if you did anything different?

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My pad didnt work out perfectly, because i had limited resources. I didn't have a worktable, and had to saw the wood on the curb of the concrete floor right before my backyard.

Yeah, that pic ^ is my cutting table, lol. The table saw didnt work, and the jigsaw was stuck in the "sawzall" position. Most of my work was done in my house on the floor, and i highly reccomend gloves for sheet metal, because i used half-finger gloves, and got covered in booboos. ;'-(

(yes, little sister's band-aids)

Man, even wear long pants cuz i wore shorts and while sitting on the floor cutting the metal it cut my knee without me noticing. lol, don't worry its not that horrible

but dont worry, i still managed to convert a stupid foam pad into a better pad that fulfilled my dreams



[btw, sorry if the pics arent professionally done, and include random paintball stuff or whatever other randomness. If you're doing the project and are as enthusiastic as me about anything as awesome as building your own pad, you'll realize how all you wanna do is finish it and not even take pics. But even the best of us have to retire to our chambers, so i took pics once in a while.

Anyways, i basically combined Stoli's and DDR Homepad's design. The peg board sounded too thin, and i didnt want my pad on stilts plus on top of peg-board (with MDF board or something like that), and Stoli's was like making a guitar or something, lol and no offense, its a compliment on how exquisite it is. (sorry for the weird words, i barely ever write reviews or anything to like help out people, so i might get a little funky, beware)


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I got a 1/2" plywood for the base (33"x33") and cut 5 - 10 7/8" square pieces of 1/2" plywood. Then cut stainless steel 26 ga. metal into 11" sheets and realized that its just stupid after trying one panel. The reason is because my wood was on the conservative side of being smaller than bigger to fit better, so the squares ranged from a little less up to 10 7/8". Plus, the wood isnt a full half inch, but a little less (and yes it was legit plywood from Lowes, not imported metric wood from russia, lol). So the metal was sticking out on the sides of the panels. Big no-no for good fitting. I had to re-trim the metal with lots of work and figured the best formula is about 15/32" overlay on each side (e.g. if wood is 11", then sheet metal should extend 15/32" on each side of wood).


trimming sides, because too long here matters a lot

I made grooves in base plywood with a dremel from walmart and a metal wood-cutting accessory (for grooves, hollowing, etc) and made the paths for the wires. I made it diagonally from topleft corner (circuit board base) through center for the right and bottom arrows. And obviously top and left arrows are adjacent to control panel, but still need grooves so it wont be squished by the stationary metal panel atop it.







I also couldn't care less for brackets because they cost money and i couldn't really find them. So i just got the "Sheet Metal Screws Truss Washer Needle Pt" 8 x 1" from local hardware store even though the worker didn't know what i was talking about and i had to find it myself. I got plastic inserts that fit on screw, so the acrylic will be fastened touching that. Acrylic was Optix from Lowes and they even cut it for me (but their machine wasnt cutting so straight -_-). I got cool arrows from r21 forums, even though i'm still not sure what theyre all about, lol. I just googled and that was only good pics. (afterwards i realized i had saved earlier a pair of original ddr arrow images, but i liked the modified r21 ones more )

I also was in a hurry with the wiring so i soldered 9 in sheet metal to wires and duct taped (Gorilla tape works awesome) the metal before i even drilled the acrylic. Oops. Anyway, i just slide under scrap plywood and drilled the hole on top of the base board. I started with 1/8" and worked my way up to whatever fit the plastic washers. (btw, all of my pilot holes were 1/8"). Then screw in the stuff and voila.


My circuit board was from foam ps2 pad i ordered at beginning of summer but the left arrow on the softpad started glitching within a few days. I dremel'd a big square hole in base plywood for the circuit board to bebuilt into the pad. Oh and i also put one button in the pad for "Start" like Riptide. (Originally i wanted two buttons, but after one i was like "screw it")

So there you have it. I thought this would be a fairly quick project, like one day or max two days. It took me like about five days of lots of work, but it was well worth it.

Hey guys, I'm a first time pad modder, and I've been working with electronics for a while now.

I just got a metal pad off some guy on craigslist for $25 (score!) except the wire is cut. According to him they used the pad with an Xbox, but it looks like it has way too many wires for that. Somebody last page posted a wiring diagram for a PS2 controller, and it looks closer to that to me. I want to wire this to USB if possible so that I can use this pad with Stepmania. What do you guys recommend?

Here is what the cord looks like, sorry for the quality, picture's taken with my phone.


EDIT:
Here's the pad itself in case anybody can identify it as one they know about.